Bring on the Night

3rd July 2007 Beijing

Up at 8.30 a bit wrecked in my back from the hotel bed. It’s a good bed but too hard on my comfy Danish pork back. We headed down on the hotel diner to catch some breakfast. Acceptable selection of food of and cheap as always.

C had an idea to go to a nearby barbershop to get some curls done. She rambled on about this for more than 6 months now, so I guess it was finally the right time. She held on for a long time, so it would fit her hair being longer and a chance to take advantage of the low pricing in China.

I followed her. Not because I enjoy sitting around doing nothing, but because I’m bloody curious about everything Chinese and enjoy observing things. Beats idling in the hotel room anyway. At the shop C asked me if I wanted a hair wash and neck massage. I asked the price and was told 10 kuai. No Danish wallet with backaches can turn down that offer, so I accepted and was given the full treatment. While C got her curls (not permanent), I had my hair washed and was given an extreme lengthy head, neck, shoulder, arm and back massage. At least 45 mins and I suspected being given a wrong more expensive treatment. But no. 10rmb and that was worth every penny! I told C that I considered going there every morning for that price. C told me it would probably be even cheaper in Yilan where her family lives, so I think the budget will hold up fine no matter how many I get on this trip.

As always very sweet people and even though I understand almost nothing of what they say, we manage.

After being told that I was Danish one of the guys in the shop immidiatly shouted out: Anduzen! Anduzen is apparently how the Chinese say: H. C. Andersen.

Ate at a local restaurant where we got some sticked beef with sesame oil, some rice and lettuce in vinegar. Good food. I was afraid of upsetting my stomach which had been acting up a bit when I woke up. Nothing serious, but it just felt a bit strange, so I was extra careful.

When we left the restaurant the weather had changed from fog to rainy. C wanted to buy an umbrella and left me helpless outside the restaurant a she went hunting for one. It’s getting a ritual that I keep completely away or at a reasonable distance when she is shopping. To a Dane that seems odd, but the reason is valid enough. She simply can’t get the discount she is entitled to here when she is with a laowai/walking free ATM. She also has some qualms about holding my hand in public. I’m not really insulted now that I know that it’s just not that normal for her to be doing that in China. Where she comes from, you hide your emotions and affection for solitary moments. I have to think twice before grabbing a hold of her hand, since this is so normal for me to keep an eye of her. She on the other hand have changed her attitude towards this matter pr. reflex when she landed in China. I completely understand her. I see the other Chinese eye us a lot too, but I guess that’s just the “fat foreigner factor” in play most of the time. Holding my hand certainly doesn’t help the gazing. So we moderate this, though we haven’t stopped it. I think this is a good way to prepare for going to her hometown, where both foreigners and hand holders are from he moon.

In the afternoon we decided to go to the Emperors Summer Palace. The rain had ceased enough not to be a problem, so that was no problem. The humidity was though. I managed to sweat completely through the back of my shirt, but at least I weren’t the only one. Even the slimmer Chinese guys followed my example, so that made me feel less fat. Nothing beats being a fat laowai than being a fat one who is also sweaty and smelly. We climbed the mountain there to get to the lake. Hard job, and we were both beat when we reached the shore.

Another tourist trap was waiting for us there: A tea house. The pricing was steep, but our fatigue was convincing us that a break would be wise. So we bought 2 cups of tea and a pot for refilling (gotta try a tea house when you’re I China, right?). It cost us the crazed amount of 95rmb. Ripped of again, but so what? We’re still tourists here and can be cheapskates when we get home. Afterwards we marched towards the exit but was soon brushed aside by some officials. Turns out some important dude were there for some kind of media stunt or official visit. I think it was the Indian prime minister or something like that, because his wife dragged behind and had the bull’s-eye dot on her forehead. He was wearing one of these hats you always see Indians, Pakistanis or Afghans use. We found a different way out over the mountain again and headed outside.

It was time to catch a bus to Wudaokou where we’ve arranged to meet Kevin and his wife for dinner. The bus was late and I was bitching about my sore feet so C was easy to convince to get a cab instead. Fortunately for us, this was a lucky decision as we were waiting for the bus in the wrong direction. Again one of these moments where locals rather give wrong directions than to loose face and admit that they were not sure. I’ve seen that a few times already. Would never happen in Denmark, but then again, were not in Denmark, so I better learn fast or get lost.

Not sure if we waited for Kevin and Jin-Jin at the right spot, and I was getting a bit nervous is we were in for a panicky save to find them. Turned out we were correctly placed and suddenly I spotted them in the crowd. We went and had a nice dinner at a nearby restaurant. Great place compared to other spots I’ve visited here.

As I expected Kevin and Jin-Jin were a very nice couple. Kevin is a cool guy and we had plenty to talk about. The meet up also gave me a chance to brush up on my oral English. I’ve never been to America or England (a visit to Heathrow doesn’t count right?). C and Jin-Jin hit it of pretty fast and after dinner they left us to do some woman style shopping. Meanwhile Kevin and I went to an ATM so I could withdraw some rmb. Then we headed to a nearby beer garden to get a cold one and talk.

Kevin was obviously feeling more at home than me. I notice all the differences that make China China and Denmark Denmark. Insane shouting and the Laowai starers went “whoosh” over Kevin’s head, whereas I couldn’t help but comment and notice every tiny thing that went on around us. It’s not easy being a newbie laowai, but on the other hand, right now my adventure is fresher than those who have been living here for a long time. Time to suck it all in.

Round 22.30, it was time to go home. We walked along with Kevin and Jin-Jin and found a cab home. It was a good day even though the weather weren’t with us all he time. Meeting Kevin and Jin-Jin certainly was the highlight of the day. Very nice people and cool to put a real face on a fellow blogger.

When we came home, I sat at my laptop and wrote a few keywords about our day. Suddenly I felt extremely chilly and my jaw started jittering. I guess I was a bit ill after all. The strange feeling in my stomach may have been a clue that something was underway. Fortunately this was gone when I woke up the next morning.

Tags: beijing, blogging, China, park